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![]() February 14th Luca Luca designer Raul Melgozais is a master of the subtle but sophisticated. There was a definite feel of New York City and its towering architecture in his collection. The structure of his garments, as well as his choice of dark, grey and beige fabrics, suggested building facades. The young sophisticated woman that is Melgozais’ perpetual muse could certainly walk tall under the iconic Manhattan skyline. Herve Leger is a brand that is built on the single idea of the bandage dress . Husband and wife team Max and Lubov Azria are like artists that can spend their entire lives working on minuscule canvasses without ever running out of ideas. This season was no exception. Their use of fused fabrics and tight fitting ribbing was a definite highlight. Diane von Furstenberg called her collection METAMORPHOSIS. Her goal was to capture the everyday fluid adaptability of a modern woman and her everyday demanding lifestyle. This she called buttoned – unbuttoned. In other words the essence of masculine-feminine. Tony Cohen’s show started with a burst of black rose pedals sprinkled on the runway. That was a reminder that a monotone if worked properly can have as many different dimensions as the colors of the rainbow. The Dutch born designer stuck almost exclusively with black and tight fitting silhouettes. His blending of leather and fur trim, and ability to make his clothing flow, gave his pieces distinct individual personalities. Y-3's adventures in urbanwear continued along in its evolution towards a more sophisticated appeal with its move away from activewear to relaxed chic. There were lots of bulky comfortable looking knits. Many of the loose fitting unstructured looks seemed right of the 1980's especially with their big sagging shoulders. Custo Barcelona designer Custo Dalmau came up with an entirely new category of fun clothing that he proclaimed as 'Hairy Metal'. The faux fur extravaganza could only be described as The Flintstones meet Glam Rock. The synthetic neon colored fuzzy short skirts with patchwork details were something Wilma would no doubt wear. But the big hairy vests were what Brian Jones and Keith Richards could easily have been photographed in during the psychedelic 1960's. |
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